and our room
Saturday, 15 September 2018
Urgench and Khiva
Arriving at Urgench Airport. BL makes her way across the tarmac. No aerobridges here either.
Then we drove to Khiva. This was our hotel
and at night.
and our room
and dinner (I think).
Waiting for our guide in the courtyard the next day, the local cat looked for company. They are the same everywhere!
This was our bus. Plenty of space, 2 seats each.
And the sign. Except for BL and myself, everyone else was from the UK. So Sanjar could always find our passports.
And for those with an interest in number-plates - this is Uzbekistan's. The first two digits are the region.
and our room
Thursday, 13 September 2018
Context
To understand what we saw, it helps to have some history. This is the KK version, compiled from our Iranian trip, our Uzbek guide and Wikipedia!
BC, present day Uzbekistan was part of Sogdiana. Sogdia was an ancient Iranian civilisation which centered on cities such as Samarkand, Bukhara, and Shahriasabz. The Sogidan states were never politically united but the Sogdians played an important role as middlemen in the trade route now called the Silk Road. Our guide described them as traders.
So when you think of ruling dynasties in Sogdiana, think Persia. For most of the time from BC to when the Russians ruled, Persia and Uzbekistan were part of the same empire.
This huge period included the incursions of Alexander the Great (if you are Greek) in the 300s BC. He is not popular in Iran, where he is called Alexander of Macedon. According to our guide, he is not universally admired in Uzbekistan either.
The main religion of Sogdiana, brought from Iran, was Zoroastrianism. Their god was Ahura Mazda, they worshipped fire (hence fire temples) and are known for their sky burials, where the bodies are left in towers of silence and exposed to the elements. This keeps the ground clean. other religions were Nestorian Christianity and Buddhism.
In 600AD in Persia and 700AD in Central Asia, the conversion to Islam began with the Muslim conquest. The Sogdian conversion to Islam was virtually complete by 999, coinciding with the decline of the Sogdian language which was largely supplanted by Persian as well as Turkic languages.
The dynasties of Persia still ruled this area, which became known as Transoxiana - the land beyond the River Oxus. The home-grown hero is Emir Timur. Transoxiana and Persia were still part of the same empire, but the ruler was a local lad. Because of injury to his right leg, he was known as Timur the Lame, (or Tamerlane). Since independence, he has become a national hero in Uzbekistan.
Today, Uzbekistan is Sunni, whereas Iran is Shiite.
In the nineteenth century, the Russians expanded into Transoxiana. This was part of the rivalry between Britain and Russia for dominance, known as the Great Game. So Transoxania experienced life under Tsars, and then under the Soviets. It was the Soviets who drew the "stan" boundaries and called the region the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic. The Russians actively discouraged the practice of religion.
When the Soviet Union collapsed, these territories became independent, Uzbekistan in 1991. Their first president, Karimov died just last year.
The Silk Road was a network of trading routes. Rarely did a trader begin at one end and go the whole distance. Goods were exchanged at various centres along the route. According to our guide, traders would also have pre-orders for particular goods.
BC, present day Uzbekistan was part of Sogdiana. Sogdia was an ancient Iranian civilisation which centered on cities such as Samarkand, Bukhara, and Shahriasabz. The Sogidan states were never politically united but the Sogdians played an important role as middlemen in the trade route now called the Silk Road. Our guide described them as traders.
So when you think of ruling dynasties in Sogdiana, think Persia. For most of the time from BC to when the Russians ruled, Persia and Uzbekistan were part of the same empire.
This huge period included the incursions of Alexander the Great (if you are Greek) in the 300s BC. He is not popular in Iran, where he is called Alexander of Macedon. According to our guide, he is not universally admired in Uzbekistan either.
The main religion of Sogdiana, brought from Iran, was Zoroastrianism. Their god was Ahura Mazda, they worshipped fire (hence fire temples) and are known for their sky burials, where the bodies are left in towers of silence and exposed to the elements. This keeps the ground clean. other religions were Nestorian Christianity and Buddhism.
In 600AD in Persia and 700AD in Central Asia, the conversion to Islam began with the Muslim conquest. The Sogdian conversion to Islam was virtually complete by 999, coinciding with the decline of the Sogdian language which was largely supplanted by Persian as well as Turkic languages.
The dynasties of Persia still ruled this area, which became known as Transoxiana - the land beyond the River Oxus. The home-grown hero is Emir Timur. Transoxiana and Persia were still part of the same empire, but the ruler was a local lad. Because of injury to his right leg, he was known as Timur the Lame, (or Tamerlane). Since independence, he has become a national hero in Uzbekistan.
Today, Uzbekistan is Sunni, whereas Iran is Shiite.
In the nineteenth century, the Russians expanded into Transoxiana. This was part of the rivalry between Britain and Russia for dominance, known as the Great Game. So Transoxania experienced life under Tsars, and then under the Soviets. It was the Soviets who drew the "stan" boundaries and called the region the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic. The Russians actively discouraged the practice of religion.
When the Soviet Union collapsed, these territories became independent, Uzbekistan in 1991. Their first president, Karimov died just last year.
The Silk Road was a network of trading routes. Rarely did a trader begin at one end and go the whole distance. Goods were exchanged at various centres along the route. According to our guide, traders would also have pre-orders for particular goods.
Tashkent to Urgench
We got ourselves to Tashkent domestic airport. This is it - hardly crowded!
Security is out the front - in the middle of nowhere.
And the aircraft.
We are learning some of the signs.
And they have very cute tea cups.
Breakfast in Tashkent - and hotel signage.
On the way to breakfast - not sure what Alisher's job description is.
I guess this means hard-boiled eggs. Couldn't see any 4 minute ones.
They were still brown in colour.
First glimpses of Uzbekistan
At check-in. Another first for luggage tags.
This is the plane - a Boeing 767.
Then on board, This was my seat - all alone in the middle of the cabin. The only seat in the plane where people walk in front of you!
BL's recline wasn't working so they mover her to another seat. Fortunately there was one other unoccupied seat. We discovered later that BL missed the last snack because she was asleep.
There were a few traveller's tales at Tashkent Airport. A celebrated sports team was returning to a brass band welcome. But the local English nor my Uzbek were sufficient to figure out which sport. BL thought is was the Asian Games, despite the word Olympics having been said. When English is a second language, you have to flexible in your interpretations!
We were spared the immigration hassles I had read about, by Business Class having a dedicated bus, immigration and baggage retrieval. (There are no aerobridges at Tashkent Airport - it doesn't rain anyway so who needs them?)
Then we wanted to go to the main airport to change money and get a taxi. We were assigned a "helper", who took me to a money change stall. It all looked official. They only changed a few currencies, (not including AU or SG) so I decided to change GBP. One note was rejected because it was torn. But otherwise, all went well.
Then the taxi! Our helper couldn't find one, so delivered us to this man in a tiny car who wanted US$10. Oh well, weak bargaining position. We gave the helper a 200 som note but his English was good enough to indicate this was not enough and he wanted 3000 som. On the way to the hotel, BL worked out that was only one SG$ - maybe even less! Hardly qualifies as a rip-off!
Our US$10 driver wasn't sure where our hotel was, even which hotel, despite having shown him the name on the booking. I heard him asking another car on the way. But City Palace seemed to mean something, so he took us to a hotel called City Palace. It was very grand. And for once I needed a hard copy of my booking - the concierge couldn't find it on his system and then told me it was not this hotel!
So another wait and and 15,000 som later, and a proper taxi, we got to our hotel, Lotte City Palace. I made sure the driver saw the address in Russian script and this seemed to work. The first driver may not have been particularly literate.
We had dinner on the roof top restaurant. Very pleasant. The prices looked daunting until we worked out that you just divide by 6,000. This is a minor under-estimate, but good enough.
Just to let you know, this is GBP40 in som (minus a couple of notes).
And a reassuring sign above, just in case you forget where you are.
Off to bed and another day, another experience.
Bangkok
There was a kerfuffle with our flight to Bangkok. The short story is that that having been given incorrect information, we thought we would not be able to make our connection at Bangkok and would have to fly there the day before, So the ticket change, plus extra hotel accommodation, plus surplus hotel room in Singapore added to our holiday costs. Request for reimbursement coming up.
However there is always a good side, We were on a virtually empty SQ fight to Bangkok, and got to try their airport hotel. It works very well with a virtually on-demand shuttle.
Bangkok Airport and Hotel is no challenge! We did notice who gets priority though. Monks are on the list of specially treated persons.
And there were thank-you signs to the international community who helped in the rescue of the 13 people from the caves in Northern Thailand.
However there is always a good side, We were on a virtually empty SQ fight to Bangkok, and got to try their airport hotel. It works very well with a virtually on-demand shuttle.
Bangkok Airport and Hotel is no challenge! We did notice who gets priority though. Monks are on the list of specially treated persons.
And there were thank-you signs to the international community who helped in the rescue of the 13 people from the caves in Northern Thailand.
Itinerary Uzbekistan 2018.
26 August. Kin Mun and I fly to Singapore.
28 August. Beo Lan and I fly to Tashkent via Bangkok.
29 August. Beo Lan and I fly to Urgench
Day 2 : Tashkent-Urgench-Khiva
Enjoy a late breakfast at a local restaurant before flying to Urgench
and transferring to Khiva for two nights at the Asia Khiva (3Q) or a
similar hotel. B,D
30 August. Day 3 : Khiva
Today's included morning walking tour will reveal Khiva's inner fortress, Itchan Kala, an architectural treasure trove of carefully restored mud-walled monuments. Highlights include the Ismail Khodja Mausoleum, the 16th-century Kunya-Ark Castle and 19th-century Muhammed Amin Khan Madrassah. Enjoy lunch at a local restaurant and dinner with a folk show at the 19th-century Kibla Tozabog, the summer residence of the Khiva Khans, or at an alternative venue between November and March. B, L, D
3 August. Day 4 : Khiva to Bukhara
A long day's journey will take you across the Kyzyl-Kum or Red Desert, a route that once took camel caravans laden down with silk, spices and other exotic goods a month to make. You'll pause en route for a packed lunch before continuing to Bukhara, where you stay three nights at the Asia Bukhara (3Q) or a similar hotel. B, L, D
1 September. Day 5 : Bukhara
A centre of trade and education for more than 2,000 years, Bukhara is the best example of a medieval city in Central Asia. Seek out its key sights on an included three-quarter day walking tour of its old town, including the 10th-century Samanids Mausoleum. Later this afternoon, perhaps visit the 15th to 16th-century domed bazaars where merchants still ply their trade. Look forward to an included dinner at a local guest house, including a class on Bukharian cuisine. B, D
2 September. Day 6 : Bukhara
Journey beyond the heart of the city today to the magnificent 16th to 19th-century Naqshbandi Mausoleum, built for the founder of the Naqshbandi Sufi order, on an included morning tour. Beautiful blue-glazed tiles adorn the facade of this domed, multi-arched masterpiece. Also visit the summer residence of the last Emir of Bukhara, Sitorai-Mokhi-Hossa, a reminder of Uzbekistan's era of Russian rule. After an embroidery masterclass, enjoy lunch in a guest house, then this evening stroll through the atmospheric streets of Bukhara to a local restaurant for an included dinner and a folk and fashion show. B, L, D
3 September. Day 7 : Bukhara to Samarkand
After breakfast, relax on a morning coach journey to Samarkand where you stay two nights at the Grand Samarkand (4Q) or a similar hotel. This afternoon, join an included visit to the Afrosiyab Museum before dinner at a local restaurant. B, D
4 September. Day 8 : Samarkand
Admire the colourful mosaics, blue domes and lofty arches of Registan Square on today's included tour. This grand plaza is bordered on three sides by a group of splendid structures spanning the 14th to 16th centuries, built by the Timurid dynasty. Afterwards enjoy dinner at a local restaurant. B, D
5 September. Day 9 : Shakhrisabz and Samarkand to Tashkent
This morning, travel through the Tahta-karacha Pass to Shakhrisabz to discover 14th to 15th-century Timurid mosques, mausoleums and the ruined gateway of Ak-Saray Palace. Enjoy a taste of local cuisine during an included lunch at a guest house before returning to Samarkand for the two-hour Afrosiab high-speed train journey to Tashkent. Stay two nights at Lotte City Palace (4Q) or a similar hotel. B, L, D
6 September. Day 10 : Tashkent
Explore modern Tashkent on an included sightseeing tour, and visit the Museum of History, the Museum of Applied Art and the Khast-Imam complex. This evening, enjoy a farewell dinner at a local restaurant. B, D
7 September. Day 11 : Tashkent
Enjoy the morning at leisure before your return flight to the UK and your included UK door-to-door travel service home. B9 September. Arrive Singapore.
10/11 September. Singapore.
12 September: Kin Mun and I fly back to Sydney. SQ241 arrive 16:40.
Wednesday, 7 March 2018
Shimla - India with Mountains
Shimla was not what I expected - which is my fault. I had this image of a cute village in the mountains. Instead, think of an Indian city draped over
spectacular mountains and spilling down the sides. It was also a bigger city than I
had expected. These are a couple of views of different parts of Shimla.
Driving along roads and using lookouts was difficult because of the traffic and crowding.
The town is neat as far as rubbish is concerned, and there are no cows and minimal numbers of sleeping dogs. You can see the old English style buildings, but they are in a state of disrepair.
Shopping choices range from The Mall
to the Tibetan market.
There are still some pretty untidy sights away from the main areas.
At the same time you get a sense that Shimla is a town with a future. It is vibrant, there are a lot of local tourists - well outnumbering international tourists it would seem. There is a lot of renovation, construction and roadwork going on as well. It would be interesting to come back in 5 or so years - you get the feeling that the access and the town will be quite different.
Jobs and growth in Shimla.
The mountains are spectacular and someone who wanted a holiday walking/trekking I suspect would enjoy what it offers.
Shimla is India in the Mountains - and spectacular mountains at that!
Driving along roads and using lookouts was difficult because of the traffic and crowding.
The town is neat as far as rubbish is concerned, and there are no cows and minimal numbers of sleeping dogs. You can see the old English style buildings, but they are in a state of disrepair.
Shopping choices range from The Mall
There are still some pretty untidy sights away from the main areas.
At the same time you get a sense that Shimla is a town with a future. It is vibrant, there are a lot of local tourists - well outnumbering international tourists it would seem. There is a lot of renovation, construction and roadwork going on as well. It would be interesting to come back in 5 or so years - you get the feeling that the access and the town will be quite different.
Jobs and growth in Shimla.
The mountains are spectacular and someone who wanted a holiday walking/trekking I suspect would enjoy what it offers.
Shimla is India in the Mountains - and spectacular mountains at that!
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