Hotel and the surrounding street.

This was our hotel.  Apart from the wifi, it was fine.

Taken around the corner from our hotel.

Grapes were plentiful  Yes, there is wine in Uzbekistan!

Translation later by Sanjar - this was a Polyclinic

and a Pharmacy.

BTW, medical care is available without charge to anyone who is within the boundaries of Uzbekistan.  That includes tourists.



 

Bukhara

Bukhara was a Sogdian city and came under Persian rulers, including Alexander in 329BC. The Arabs finally took control in the 700s AD.  The Mongols invaded in 1220.  Then later there were the Russians (under the Tsars) - and then the Soviets.  The Soviets embarked on a program of secularisation.   Since independence, some heroes have been, as our guide said, nationalised - eg Tamerlane.  Every country has its preferred narrative!

Below is a beautiful building -the mausoleum of  Ismael Samani.  It was built at the beginning of the tenth century and fortunately has survived.  The site was originally one of the holiest cemeteries in Bukhara, where even emirs were laid to rest. The Soviets relocated the graves and desanctified the are to become the Kirov Public Park.  As our guide said, they tried to erase our history.

And just one more.

And inside.  Plenty to see here.  Squinches galore to aid the transition from angles to a dome.

After a street walk

past the walls of Bukhara,

we had a coffee stop - a coffee shop is a very rare phenomenon.

Various sites in Bukhara.

There were so many lovely arches, both exterior and interior, they all merged into one.  But I think I have these correct!

Mir Arab Madrassah

And there is a lovely minaret as well.  The sun was conveniently behind it.

 We saw the Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah.

 Delighted to see some lovely maqanas - the decorations on the ceiling.

And this is unrestored.  Note there are stalls everywhere.

And the Zaragon - a big bazaar.

No pics inside as I was busy buying some saffron.  Not cheaper than Thornleigh, but it was Iranian saffron which is not always available at Thornleigh.

  

Khiva to Bukhara - lunch and toilet stop.

The practicalities of travel are also interesting.  There was no (ie none, zip, zilch, zero) place for us to buy our own lunch, so the hotel provided a packed lunch and we stopped at a place with shelter, tables and chairs.  They were selling some kebabs and there was a tiny shop, but they would not have been able to cater for the 23 of us.  Such is tourist infrastructure.

So we sat down to our mystery packets

The eating area.  It was cool and pleasant.

There were toilets nearby.  Note the jug.

Don't forget your paper.

There were no basins.  The water for hand-washing was in the jug.

No doubt it had come from this - a stand-pipe.

Khiva to Bukhara - Kyzylkum Desert, River Oxus and Border Force.

Today was a five hour bus trip across the Kyzylkum Desert - or Red Desert.  According to our guide, it was named because when temperatures climbed to 70 degrees, the sand/soil appeared red.

Leaving Urgench - random shots from the bus.  Still green and settled.

The Kyzylkum Desert - random shots from the bus.

We pulled in to see the River Oxus, or Amu Darya.

Looking in the other direction.  Our guide pointed out the observation post, with armed guard.

So I zoomed in.  This was what I saw - he was the guy with gun, all I had was a camera,  so I held my breath. I wondered why Uzbekistan had a refugee problem (after all, why else do you need a Border Force?!)  I was told that the problem was drug smugglers, not people smugglers.

And a train!

Khiva

Khiva is known to have existed as long as trading caravans called there, and certainly at the beginning of the Christian era.  However the buildings that remain are from the Islamic era, with many restored in the nineteenth century..

Khiva is a walled city.  This is the Southern Gate.  The original walls were apparently destroyed in 1220 by the Mongol invaders and the slopes were used to bury the dead.  Presumably this fitted in with the Zoroastrian desire to not defile the soil.  Or perhaps it was easier?  The present walls date from the 17th century.  After 1873, it came under Russian rule.

And the walls

and the tombs

  and another shot of another part of the walls.

The western gate.  Our guide, Sanjar.

Large map of the Silk Road.

The Kalta Minor Minaret. This is an icon of Khiva.  It was begun in 1852 on the order of the ruler, Mohammad Amin-Khan.  But it was abandoned upon his death in 1855.  Reasons appear to be speculative.  It is still beautiful.

The Djuma Mosque and minaret.

There are 212 wooden pillars, all different.  Twenty one date from the 10-12th centuries with Arabic inscriptions.  The rest are from the 18-19th centuries. A harsh dry climate - they could all have done with some linseed oil, IMHO.  And Rob, the first pic of your doppelganger - the fellow in the white hat.