We arrived safely in Singapore. Our flight was delayed in Doha, and we were kept waiting when we had boarded. Waiting so long that they had to disarm the doors.
We have just had dinner, which our bodies think is lunch. We will catch up with family tomorrow (Wednesday) and then fly home Thursday.
And I am using the editing function of Blogger once again. Will fix up the blog over the next couple of weeks.
Tuesday, 28 February 2017
You know you are in Iran when
You know you are in Iran when
Strangers in the street say "Welcome to Iran"
Men's toilets have no urinals but cubicles just like women's
You are not allowed to photograph government buildings
Everything is first discovered or invented here
Four traffic lanes can take six lanes of cars
The choices in the restaurant menu are either lamb or lamb.
You are treated better than the Americans and British in your visa application
Women have the front seats in public buses.
Cars are allowed to go through red lights
The chinese restaurant is called The Chinese Restaurant
The Shiites are good guys and the Sunnis are bad guys
Muslims are allowed to have shrines
Door knockers are not gender neutral.
You have been in Iran too long when
You know the difference between the Achemenids and the Safavids and the Qajars.
You can cross the road without being shielded by the locals
Your headscarf doesn't fall off and showing hair is sexy
You like having barley soup for lunch, breakfast and dinner.
You get drunk on the local beer (zero alcohol)
Gender specific door knockers, so you can tell who is at the door. Can you tell which is which?
Gender specific door knockers, so you can tell who is at the door. Can you tell which is which?
Onboard flight leaving Tehran; Last outing in Tehran
K minus scarf, smiling showing bare arms !!
We did go to the Grand Bazaar, but it was so crowded that we abandoned any shopping plans. After talking to a local man who wanted to talk to us, we resorted to Plan B. This was to turn to the right from our hotel and look for the shops we had seen from our bus. On the way we had "Cup Corn" for lunch, and an ice-cream as well as a conversation with the owner. He has two children, both living overseas (one in England) for the past 40 years. The daughter left "because of the scarf" - meaning the new regime.
We walked on and had to cross the road, this time without Amin who used to get us across the pedestrian crossings. The first time I just followed a lady and weaved in and out of the cars with her. (Thanks to Deryn for teaching us this technique in China many eclipses ago!). The second time we asked a woman if we could cross with her, and she willingly got us across. It was much appreciated. Another young lady also wanted to help Kin Mun!
It was a much more successful shopping expedition. We also found a craft shop and I managed to get some of the ceramic ware I had been eyeing.
At the airport, I went to the shop with my remaining 50,000 rials and was told that I could get 2 packets of nuts as well as a bottle of water. So that was the end of our Iranian money!
We did go to the Grand Bazaar, but it was so crowded that we abandoned any shopping plans. After talking to a local man who wanted to talk to us, we resorted to Plan B. This was to turn to the right from our hotel and look for the shops we had seen from our bus. On the way we had "Cup Corn" for lunch, and an ice-cream as well as a conversation with the owner. He has two children, both living overseas (one in England) for the past 40 years. The daughter left "because of the scarf" - meaning the new regime.
We walked on and had to cross the road, this time without Amin who used to get us across the pedestrian crossings. The first time I just followed a lady and weaved in and out of the cars with her. (Thanks to Deryn for teaching us this technique in China many eclipses ago!). The second time we asked a woman if we could cross with her, and she willingly got us across. It was much appreciated. Another young lady also wanted to help Kin Mun!
It was a much more successful shopping expedition. We also found a craft shop and I managed to get some of the ceramic ware I had been eyeing.
At the airport, I went to the shop with my remaining 50,000 rials and was told that I could get 2 packets of nuts as well as a bottle of water. So that was the end of our Iranian money!
Monday, 27 February 2017
Last day in Tehran - and Iran
The tour has finished and we have a day on our own in Tehran. We will head off to the Grand Bazaar for last minute shopping. We leave for the airport at 5pm. Then it will be headscarves off and after Doha, a glass of wine!
Last night we said our goodbyes to the tour group after dinner at a chinese restaurant. This was obviously owned and run by locals, there were no chinese people anywhere on the staff. There were some among the patrons though.
Not sure when the next post will be - perhaps Singapore. Hard to believe the climatic change we will experience. From Tehran's current 8degrees at 1,200m and 30% humidity to Singapore at sea level, 31degrees and 70+% humidity!
Last touring day in Iran
On our last touring day in Iran, we visited three museums. I could easily post photos of the exhibits ranging from pre-Islamic period of Archaemenids to the Islamic Republic of today to fill up our entire blog, but I won't.
Instead, the highlight of today for me was a chance glimpse of the tallest mountain in Iran, Mt Damavand at more than 4000. It was just visible in the haze and to justify a post I will need editing tools which which I will have only when I get back to Sydney.
Tehran is blessed with a view of the mountains that is snow capped throughout the year. Here's an example.
Sunday, 26 February 2017
Tehran
Our first day of touring in Tehran.
We went to the Golestan Palace, built by the Qajars, the dynasty just before the Pahlavis - the last Shah was a Pahlavi. This is one section where we could take photos. Apparently mirrors were transported from Venice, but many were broken, so the art of mosaic using small pieces of mirror was born - or so the story goes. It seems to me that they liked it so much that they kept on smashing mirrors anyway. Some rooms were absolutely covered in these pieces and I imagine you could light a huge room with a tiny bulb.
Thanks to Google, this is an image of what we could not photograph.
We also saw the National Jewels of Iran. Security was huge, 3 lots of scanning. No pics. Thanks to Google, this is the crown made in 1967 by Van Cleef and Arpels from various jewels that they lying around in the Treasury. It was made for the coronation of the last Shah's wife.
And also thanks to Google, here is the Shah's...
And there were lots, lots more. Some of them beautiful, others just staggering. I remember looking at a lovely white fringe, then seeing it was made of the tiniest of pearls strung together. No wonder these jewels are part of Iran's reserves.
This is a pic of Kin Mun at the Azadi Tower. You will recognise it when you see it. The last Shah built it in 1971 and it was on the route to the old airport. The present airport is in the other direction, and you no longer see this tower, but you do pass the shrine of Khomeni.
Today was much milder than any other day - max I think about 15 I think - which made things much easier.
Our last tour day is tomorrow (Sunday) and dinner will be at a chinese restaurant, I think the organisers are aware that the food is repetitive. We are so lucky in Australia and Singapore at the variety of cuisines we can get. Not that the food here is awful - it isn't - but there is so little variety. Not to mention a glass of wine. I say I don't miss it, but then it does come to mind when we sit down to dinner!
We went to the Golestan Palace, built by the Qajars, the dynasty just before the Pahlavis - the last Shah was a Pahlavi. This is one section where we could take photos. Apparently mirrors were transported from Venice, but many were broken, so the art of mosaic using small pieces of mirror was born - or so the story goes. It seems to me that they liked it so much that they kept on smashing mirrors anyway. Some rooms were absolutely covered in these pieces and I imagine you could light a huge room with a tiny bulb.
Thanks to Google, this is an image of what we could not photograph.
We also saw the National Jewels of Iran. Security was huge, 3 lots of scanning. No pics. Thanks to Google, this is the crown made in 1967 by Van Cleef and Arpels from various jewels that they lying around in the Treasury. It was made for the coronation of the last Shah's wife.
And also thanks to Google, here is the Shah's...
And there were lots, lots more. Some of them beautiful, others just staggering. I remember looking at a lovely white fringe, then seeing it was made of the tiniest of pearls strung together. No wonder these jewels are part of Iran's reserves.
This is a pic of Kin Mun at the Azadi Tower. You will recognise it when you see it. The last Shah built it in 1971 and it was on the route to the old airport. The present airport is in the other direction, and you no longer see this tower, but you do pass the shrine of Khomeni.
Today was much milder than any other day - max I think about 15 I think - which made things much easier.
Our last tour day is tomorrow (Sunday) and dinner will be at a chinese restaurant, I think the organisers are aware that the food is repetitive. We are so lucky in Australia and Singapore at the variety of cuisines we can get. Not that the food here is awful - it isn't - but there is so little variety. Not to mention a glass of wine. I say I don't miss it, but then it does come to mind when we sit down to dinner!
Saturday, 25 February 2017
Odds and ends
We were not offered a sniff of the camel hump. Enough there to satisfy the average Chinese tourists.
At lunch today we were told that a party of 200 was turning up at the same restaurant at Kashan, and so we had to start on ours earlier. We found out when the crowd turned up that it was a funeral lunch, all women dressed in deeper shades of black than ever, and men too were in black. The two genders were separated at the lunch table, men on one side and women on the other.
Isfahan to Tehran.
An early departure this morning, for a 480 km drive.
We called in at a mosque at Natanz. What saves this tour from being ABM, Carolyn points out a particular feature that she wants to emphasize. This was beautiful turquoise and cobalt mosaic on the bricks, from the 13/14th century, perfectly arranged. Many of the larger tiles inside are now in the British Museum and the V & A Museum. Ouch.
More perfect tiling.
We visited some historic houses, and then a UNESCO listed Persian Garden
I took this photo, in the garden, of a gallery, with two decorated domes. This young couple wouldn't move, and I couldn't wait, so I took the photo. They were oblivious to the world around them, taking a selfie. So much for scarves and chadors! It's a lovely photo.
And looking up.
And a new take on CCTV.
We are safely in Tehran at out hotel. The menu is becoming predictable - lamb on skewers, minced lamb on skewers, lamb chops, chicken, trout, but tonight also had salmon from Norway. There is also a salad bar and soups for the entree. The buffets often have better choice and you can try different things.
The hotel is good, but only has "hating" (as it was explained to me), which just de-humidifes the already dry atmosphere. So we switch off the heating, open the window, and wait for the cool air to come in.
Oh yes, there was a wedding dinner in the dining room tonight. because we clapped loudly, the bride and groom came over to speak to us (the tour group I mean). The groom had lived many years in Canada but had come back to Iran. He offered to pay for our dinner but we declined.
We called in at a mosque at Natanz. What saves this tour from being ABM, Carolyn points out a particular feature that she wants to emphasize. This was beautiful turquoise and cobalt mosaic on the bricks, from the 13/14th century, perfectly arranged. Many of the larger tiles inside are now in the British Museum and the V & A Museum. Ouch.
More perfect tiling.
We visited some historic houses, and then a UNESCO listed Persian Garden
I took this photo, in the garden, of a gallery, with two decorated domes. This young couple wouldn't move, and I couldn't wait, so I took the photo. They were oblivious to the world around them, taking a selfie. So much for scarves and chadors! It's a lovely photo.
And looking up.
And a new take on CCTV.
We are safely in Tehran at out hotel. The menu is becoming predictable - lamb on skewers, minced lamb on skewers, lamb chops, chicken, trout, but tonight also had salmon from Norway. There is also a salad bar and soups for the entree. The buffets often have better choice and you can try different things.
The hotel is good, but only has "hating" (as it was explained to me), which just de-humidifes the already dry atmosphere. So we switch off the heating, open the window, and wait for the cool air to come in.
Oh yes, there was a wedding dinner in the dining room tonight. because we clapped loudly, the bride and groom came over to speak to us (the tour group I mean). The groom had lived many years in Canada but had come back to Iran. He offered to pay for our dinner but we declined.
Friday, 24 February 2017
Isfahan - Religion and Harmony
While we were at the largest mosque in Iran, one that dates back to the 9th century, we came across a visiting entourage of Greek Orthodox priests, accompanied by a local religious cleric. Good to see that sort of religious harmony!
Iran has such a negative image in our countries, not entirely their fault. It was refreshing to see that today and also a large working Armenian Vank cathedral, a presence that would not be tolerated in some other Islamic countries. Unfortunately our program to day clashed with an Armenian saint commemoration and the Cathedral was shut.
Last day in Isfahan.
Today we went to largest mosque in Iran, built between the 14th and 18th centuries. There were some old decorations and architecture, but unfortunately my camera battery wasn't connecting too well so there are no pics from me on that.
Then we saw two bridges - this one is the Khaju Bridge.
People were having picnics underneath. Not my idea of picnic weather, I must say!
Then we went to a musical instruments museum, where we sat through a performance of Iranian music. It was very catchy and easy to listen to. It also included singing.
Tomorrow we leave for Tehran, a long day in the bus. This time next week we will be back in Sydney.
Thursday, 23 February 2017
Scarves
It is a week since the enforced wearing of a headscarf, so time to reflect on the experience.
Surprisingly, it hasn't been a bad experience. We came to Iran knowing full well that a scarf would be required. It is a courtesy to wear one, and so far, I haven't been made to feel uncomfortable with my crappy scarf skills. I have forgotten it a few times in the hotel and the world didn't end.
On the plus side, there is no such thing as a bad hair day. You know exactly what your hair will be like at the end of the day - flattened Julie Andrews style. And there is absolutely no point using a hairdryer. So it is quick to get dressed! Because it is winter, a scarf is ok but I am not sure how it would go in the heat of summer. Sometimes in an overly warm dining room, it is too hot and I resort to just draping some of it over my head, or wearing my bright silk scarf as a mini-chador.
On the minus side, and also because of the cold weather, I have enough trouble working out what layers to wear, in which order to fasten my waist pouch, wear my camera, find my gloves and put on my backpack, so sorting out a scarf as well is an added irritation. Sometimes I look down to get something out of my bag and all I can see is scarf. Miscellaneous food has been dropped on my scarf, so by the end of the trip it will be a souvenir of all the meals we have eaten, that is if quarantine will let it back into the country.
Scarves are pretty universally worn, including by tourists. We saw a group of Chinese tourists who were wearing them. There were also some Japanese tourists we saw where the ladies went the whole fashion hog including scarves, beautifully arranged.
Looking at the women the streets, some are in the chador (the one sheet of black cloth knotted under the chin). After a while, I began to see the utility of it - think of it as an all-purpose coat, or a poncho. I was thinking that if I lived in Iran, I would get several - a Gore-Tex one, one made of Liberty cotton, or a light-weight merino one, and it could be quite nice and practical. I even began to wonder just what the women wore under them! Could be quite a good idea in summer.
Some women wear the sort of scarves, completely covering hair, that we see worn by Muslim women back home. That doesn't appeal too me - too hot and restrictive - but that is by no means the only way you can wear a scarf.
Many women wear a scarf, with underlying bun (or hair piece, or some gadget) that gives a nice profile, enables the wearer to keep her scarf in place while showing a lot of hair. it looks quite elegant. Whatever clothing the mullahs dictate, you can't stop women turning it into something fashionable!
This is courtesy of Google. Looks much better than mine did!
And we saw these three ladies, out enjoying themselves.
And there are no fully covered faces (post-box style) or burkas anywhere to be seen.
Whatever people wear, there are things we have in common - such as a young couple taking a selfie.
If I lived here, I would sharpen up my scarf skills, get a false bun and have the scarf elegantly and precariously sitting on the back of my head.
Another gender issue - separate screening for women, including at airports. Again, I don't mind at all - it is a much gentler experience. After all, we accept gendered toilets, so it is not a new idea.
However I don't think I will take to scarf wearing when I get home.
Surprisingly, it hasn't been a bad experience. We came to Iran knowing full well that a scarf would be required. It is a courtesy to wear one, and so far, I haven't been made to feel uncomfortable with my crappy scarf skills. I have forgotten it a few times in the hotel and the world didn't end.
On the plus side, there is no such thing as a bad hair day. You know exactly what your hair will be like at the end of the day - flattened Julie Andrews style. And there is absolutely no point using a hairdryer. So it is quick to get dressed! Because it is winter, a scarf is ok but I am not sure how it would go in the heat of summer. Sometimes in an overly warm dining room, it is too hot and I resort to just draping some of it over my head, or wearing my bright silk scarf as a mini-chador.
On the minus side, and also because of the cold weather, I have enough trouble working out what layers to wear, in which order to fasten my waist pouch, wear my camera, find my gloves and put on my backpack, so sorting out a scarf as well is an added irritation. Sometimes I look down to get something out of my bag and all I can see is scarf. Miscellaneous food has been dropped on my scarf, so by the end of the trip it will be a souvenir of all the meals we have eaten, that is if quarantine will let it back into the country.
Scarves are pretty universally worn, including by tourists. We saw a group of Chinese tourists who were wearing them. There were also some Japanese tourists we saw where the ladies went the whole fashion hog including scarves, beautifully arranged.
Looking at the women the streets, some are in the chador (the one sheet of black cloth knotted under the chin). After a while, I began to see the utility of it - think of it as an all-purpose coat, or a poncho. I was thinking that if I lived in Iran, I would get several - a Gore-Tex one, one made of Liberty cotton, or a light-weight merino one, and it could be quite nice and practical. I even began to wonder just what the women wore under them! Could be quite a good idea in summer.
Many women wear a scarf, with underlying bun (or hair piece, or some gadget) that gives a nice profile, enables the wearer to keep her scarf in place while showing a lot of hair. it looks quite elegant. Whatever clothing the mullahs dictate, you can't stop women turning it into something fashionable!
This is courtesy of Google. Looks much better than mine did!
And we saw these three ladies, out enjoying themselves.
And there are no fully covered faces (post-box style) or burkas anywhere to be seen.
Whatever people wear, there are things we have in common - such as a young couple taking a selfie.
If I lived here, I would sharpen up my scarf skills, get a false bun and have the scarf elegantly and precariously sitting on the back of my head.
Another gender issue - separate screening for women, including at airports. Again, I don't mind at all - it is a much gentler experience. After all, we accept gendered toilets, so it is not a new idea.
However I don't think I will take to scarf wearing when I get home.
Isfahan
Today we went to the main square of Isfahan, designed by Shah Abbas (late 16th early 17th century)
The main attraction was the stunning Royal Mosque. Both outside
and inside.
They liked their tiles!
After all that beauty, it was time to feed the body. This was lunch. KM reading the menu, wondering what else they had besides lamb.
However the young man at the next table (or should I say couch) helped us with the food and told one of our group his life story.
Rob, couldn't help but think of you. Plenty here for you.......
and inside.
After all that beauty, it was time to feed the body. This was lunch. KM reading the menu, wondering what else they had besides lamb.
However the young man at the next table (or should I say couch) helped us with the food and told one of our group his life story.
Rob, couldn't help but think of you. Plenty here for you.......
Wednesday, 22 February 2017
Shia religion
As we progress through Iran, where the vast majority of the population follow the Shia sect of Islam, we are learning a bit more about the differences between that and Sunniism, which we were more familiar with in our region of the world.
I had previously been led to believe that Shites were extremists and intolerant. There have been no sign of any aggressive or unfriendly gestures from the many Iranians we came across. In fact they were all friendly and "Welcome to Iran" was a common greeting by total strangers in the streets.
I need to clarify further what I posted a few days ago about the depiction of life forms in wall decorations etc. We have a very good local guide (plus an equally impressive lecturer from UK) who explained that Shia tolerates such depictions and indeed we saw many examples of that. In fact, Sunnis are more intolerant of that and for their structures, calligraphy dominates the decorations. There are Shia shrines to prominent people, which would not be allowed in strict Sunni countries, such as Saudi Arabia.
As for dress code, Kay apologised profusely one evening when she did not have her scarf on when some workers were in our room; they were equally profuse in reassuring her that it did not matter. Dress codes are of course stricter within some religious (very few) buildings, such as the shrine of the brothers of the 8th apostle.
Yazd to Isfahan
Today we left Yazd and our first stop was Meybod. This is a town that is at least 1800 years old, and made largely of adobe. This is the citadel
and a close up of the adobe. Grass and mud.
We also visited a pigeon house/dovecote, used for harvesting pigeon poo, for fertiliser. This is about 18th century. No longer used as such but restored for us to see.
This is the inside view. Apparently the pigeons sleep with their bums sticking out. Apparently there is one still in use in Isfahan but it is considered to dangerous for tourists - you can imagine!
One of the highlights of the day was a group of Iranian school children (probably upper primary in our system) who smiled and waved at us. This is becoming commonplace on this trip. When instructed by their teachers, we received a resounding cheer. We felt like celebrities!
We are now safely in Isfahan after a longish bus ride and longish sleep. Tomorrow we see the city centre, designed by Shah Abbas in the sixteenth century. It is getting difficult to keep track of all the dynasties and periods of the things we are seeing!
No access to the blog in Isfahan either. Just a lot of squiggles comes up on the screen!
and a close up of the adobe. Grass and mud.
We also visited a pigeon house/dovecote, used for harvesting pigeon poo, for fertiliser. This is about 18th century. No longer used as such but restored for us to see.
One of the highlights of the day was a group of Iranian school children (probably upper primary in our system) who smiled and waved at us. This is becoming commonplace on this trip. When instructed by their teachers, we received a resounding cheer. We felt like celebrities!
No access to the blog in Isfahan either. Just a lot of squiggles comes up on the screen!
Tuesday, 21 February 2017
More in Yazd
The town of Yazd. No high-rise.
The Friday Mosque in Yazd. Apparently the minarets are at an angle so if they collapse, they are unlikely to damage the mosque. The Taj Mahal has the same feature.
We visited a UNESCO listed Persian Garden.
And for those of us who grew up with one, this was seen - in a UNESCO listed site!
The Friday Mosque in Yazd. Apparently the minarets are at an angle so if they collapse, they are unlikely to damage the mosque. The Taj Mahal has the same feature.
It is still cold, but as you can see, bright and sunny. They have fitted a lot into this tour, with plenty of time for explanations, but it also means long days and a lot of time on your feet.
We visited an Iranian sweets shop but too busy buying to take pics!
Unable to even view the blog here, so hope all this is visible!
Out and about in Yazd
The first trip of the day was to the Towers of Silence, which Zoroastrians used to dispose of the dead. If you want the gory details, the bodies are left to the elements (and the vultures) and after a while the remaining bones are swept into the centre ossuary. For various reasons, this ceased to work satisfactorily sometime in the 1950s I think and they resorted to cemeteries, but the towers have remained.
Two towers of silence - the ones on the hills that is, not the two brick structures.
Preparing to climb.
At the top.
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