Isfahan to Tehran.

An early departure this morning, for a 480 km drive.

We called in at a mosque at Natanz.  What saves this tour from being ABM, Carolyn points out a particular feature that she wants to emphasize.  This was beautiful turquoise and cobalt mosaic on the bricks, from the 13/14th century, perfectly arranged.  Many of the larger tiles inside are now in the British Museum and the V & A Museum. Ouch.


 
More perfect tiling.

We visited some historic houses, and then a UNESCO listed Persian Garden

I took this photo, in the garden, of a gallery, with two decorated domes.  This young couple wouldn't move, and I couldn't wait, so I took the photo.  They were oblivious to the world around them, taking a selfie.  So much for scarves and chadors!  It's a lovely photo.

And looking up.  

And a new take on CCTV.

We are safely in Tehran at out hotel.  The menu is  becoming predictable - lamb on skewers, minced lamb on skewers, lamb chops, chicken, trout, but tonight also had salmon from Norway.  There is also a salad bar and soups for the entree.  The buffets often have better choice and you can try different things.

The hotel is good, but only has "hating" (as it was explained to me), which just de-humidifes the already dry atmosphere.  So we switch off the heating, open the window,  and wait for the cool air to come in.

Oh yes, there was a wedding dinner in the dining room tonight.  because we clapped loudly, the bride and groom came over to speak to us (the tour group I mean).  The groom had lived many years in Canada but had come back to Iran. He offered to pay for our dinner but we declined.

Isfahan - Religion and Harmony

While we were at the largest mosque in Iran, one that dates back to the 9th century, we came across a visiting entourage of Greek Orthodox priests, accompanied by a local religious cleric. Good to see that sort of religious harmony!

Iran has such a negative image in our countries, not entirely their fault. It was refreshing to see that today and also a large working Armenian Vank cathedral, a presence that would not be tolerated in some other Islamic countries. Unfortunately our program to day clashed with an Armenian saint commemoration and the Cathedral was shut.

​
​
​
​

Last day in Isfahan.

Today we went to largest mosque in Iran, built between the 14th and 18th centuries.  There were some old decorations and architecture, but unfortunately my camera battery wasn't connecting too well so there are no pics from me  on that. 

Then we saw two bridges - this one is the Khaju Bridge.

People were having picnics underneath.  Not my idea of picnic weather, I must say!

Then we went to a musical instruments museum, where we sat through a performance of Iranian music.  It was very catchy and easy to listen to.  It also included singing.

Tomorrow we leave for Tehran, a long day in the bus.  This time next week we will be back in Sydney.

Scarves

It is a week since the enforced wearing of a headscarf, so time to reflect on the experience.

Surprisingly, it hasn't been a bad experience.  We came to Iran knowing full well that a scarf would be required.  It is a courtesy to wear one, and so far, I haven't been made to feel uncomfortable with my crappy scarf skills.  I have forgotten it a few times in the hotel and the world didn't end.

On the plus side, there is no such thing as a bad hair day.  You know exactly what your hair will be like at the end of the day - flattened Julie Andrews style.  And there is absolutely no point using a hairdryer.  So it is quick to get dressed!   Because it is winter, a scarf is ok but I am not sure how it would go in the heat of summer.  Sometimes in an overly warm dining room, it is too hot and I resort to just draping some of it over my head, or wearing my bright silk scarf as a mini-chador.

On the minus side, and also because of the cold weather, I have enough trouble working out what layers to wear, in which order to fasten my waist pouch, wear my camera, find my gloves and put on my backpack, so sorting out a scarf as well is an added irritation.  Sometimes I look down to get something out of my bag and all I can see is scarf.  Miscellaneous food has been dropped on my scarf, so by the end of the trip it will be a souvenir of all the meals we have eaten, that is if quarantine will let it back into the country.

Scarves are pretty universally worn, including by tourists.  We saw a group of Chinese tourists who were wearing them.  There were also some Japanese tourists we saw where the ladies went the whole fashion hog including scarves, beautifully arranged.

Looking at the women the streets, some are in the chador  (the one sheet of black cloth knotted under the chin).  After a while, I began to see the utility of it - think of it as an all-purpose coat, or a poncho.  I was thinking that if I lived in Iran, I would get several - a Gore-Tex one, one made of Liberty cotton, or a light-weight merino one,  and it could be quite nice and practical. I even began to wonder just what the women wore under them!  Could be quite a good idea in summer.

 Some women wear the sort of scarves, completely covering hair, that we see worn by Muslim women back home.   That doesn't appeal too me - too hot and restrictive - but that is by no means the only way you can wear a scarf.

Many women wear a scarf, with underlying bun (or hair piece, or some gadget) that gives a nice profile, enables the wearer to keep her scarf in place while showing a lot of hair.  it looks quite elegant.  Whatever clothing the mullahs dictate, you can't stop women turning it into something fashionable!

This is courtesy of Google.  Looks much better than mine did!

 And we saw these three ladies, out enjoying themselves. 

 And there are no fully covered faces (post-box style) or burkas anywhere to be seen.

Whatever people wear, there are things we have in common - such as a young couple taking a selfie.

If I lived here, I would sharpen up my scarf skills, get a false bun and have the scarf elegantly and precariously sitting on the back of my head.

Another gender issue - separate screening for women, including at airports.  Again, I don't mind at all - it is a much gentler experience.  After all, we accept gendered toilets, so it is not a new idea.

However I don't think I will take to scarf wearing when I get home.

Isfahan

Today we went to the main square of Isfahan, designed by Shah Abbas (late 16th early 17th century)
 

 The main attraction was the stunning Royal Mosque. Both outside

and inside.

They liked their tiles!

After all that beauty, it was time to feed the body.  This was lunch. KM reading the menu, wondering what else they had besides lamb.

However the young man at the next table (or should I say couch) helped us with the food and told one of our group his life story.


Rob, couldn't help but think of you. Plenty here for you.......

Shia religion

As we progress through Iran, where the vast majority of the population follow the Shia sect of Islam, we are learning a bit more about the differences between that and Sunniism, which we were more familiar with in our region of the world.

I had previously been led to believe that Shites were extremists and intolerant. There have been no sign of any aggressive or unfriendly gestures from the many Iranians we came across. In fact they were all friendly and "Welcome to Iran" was a common greeting by total strangers in the streets.

I need to clarify further what I posted a few days ago about the depiction of life forms in wall decorations etc. We have a very good local guide (plus an equally impressive lecturer from UK) who explained that Shia tolerates such depictions and indeed we saw many examples of that. In fact, Sunnis are more intolerant of that and for their structures, calligraphy dominates the decorations. There are Shia shrines to prominent people, which would not be allowed in strict Sunni countries, such as Saudi Arabia.

​

As for dress code, Kay apologised profusely one evening when she did not have  her scarf on when some workers were in our room; they were equally profuse in reassuring her that it did not matter.  Dress codes are of course stricter within some religious (very few) buildings, such as the shrine of the brothers of the 8th apostle. 

Yazd to Isfahan

Today we left Yazd and our first stop was Meybod.  This is a town that is at least 1800 years old, and made largely of adobe.  This is the citadel

and a close up of the adobe.  Grass and mud.



We also visited a pigeon house/dovecote, used for harvesting pigeon poo, for fertiliser.  This is about 18th century.  No longer used as such but restored for us to see.

This is the inside view. Apparently the pigeons sleep with their bums sticking out.   Apparently there is one still in use in Isfahan but it is considered to dangerous for tourists - you can imagine!

One of the highlights of the day was a group of Iranian school children (probably upper primary in our system) who smiled and waved at us.  This is becoming commonplace on this trip. When instructed by their teachers, we received a resounding cheer.  We felt like celebrities!

 We are now safely in Isfahan after a longish bus ride and longish sleep.  Tomorrow we see the city centre, designed by Shah Abbas in the sixteenth century.  It is getting difficult to keep track of all the dynasties and periods of the things we are seeing!


No access to the blog in Isfahan either.  Just a lot of squiggles comes up on the screen!

A Special Request from Patricia

Kay in dress code buying postcards.

More in Yazd

The town of Yazd.  No high-rise.


The Friday Mosque in Yazd.  Apparently the minarets are at an angle so if they collapse, they are unlikely to damage the mosque.  The Taj Mahal has the same feature.

 We visited a UNESCO listed Persian Garden.

And for those of us who grew up with one, this was seen - in a UNESCO listed site!

It is still cold, but as you can see, bright and sunny. They have fitted a lot into this tour, with plenty of time for explanations, but it also means long days and a lot of time on your feet.

We visited an Iranian sweets shop but too busy buying to take pics!

Unable to even view the blog here, so hope all this is visible!

Out and about in Yazd

The first trip of the day was to the Towers of Silence, which Zoroastrians used to dispose of the dead. If you want the gory details, the bodies are left to the elements (and the vultures) and after a while the remaining bones are swept into the centre ossuary. For various reasons, this ceased to work satisfactorily sometime in the 1950s I think and they resorted to cemeteries, but the towers have remained.

Two towers of silence - the ones on the hills that is, not the two brick structures.

Preparing to climb.

At the top.