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Thursday 23 February 2017

Scarves

It is a week since the enforced wearing of a headscarf, so time to reflect on the experience.

Surprisingly, it hasn't been a bad experience.  We came to Iran knowing full well that a scarf would be required.  It is a courtesy to wear one, and so far, I haven't been made to feel uncomfortable with my crappy scarf skills.  I have forgotten it a few times in the hotel and the world didn't end.

On the plus side, there is no such thing as a bad hair day.  You know exactly what your hair will be like at the end of the day - flattened Julie Andrews style.  And there is absolutely no point using a hairdryer.  So it is quick to get dressed!   Because it is winter, a scarf is ok but I am not sure how it would go in the heat of summer.  Sometimes in an overly warm dining room, it is too hot and I resort to just draping some of it over my head, or wearing my bright silk scarf as a mini-chador.

On the minus side, and also because of the cold weather, I have enough trouble working out what layers to wear, in which order to fasten my waist pouch, wear my camera, find my gloves and put on my backpack, so sorting out a scarf as well is an added irritation.  Sometimes I look down to get something out of my bag and all I can see is scarf.  Miscellaneous food has been dropped on my scarf, so by the end of the trip it will be a souvenir of all the meals we have eaten, that is if quarantine will let it back into the country.

Scarves are pretty universally worn, including by tourists.  We saw a group of Chinese tourists who were wearing them.  There were also some Japanese tourists we saw where the ladies went the whole fashion hog including scarves, beautifully arranged.

Looking at the women the streets, some are in the chador  (the one sheet of black cloth knotted under the chin).  After a while, I began to see the utility of it - think of it as an all-purpose coat, or a poncho.  I was thinking that if I lived in Iran, I would get several - a Gore-Tex one, one made of Liberty cotton, or a light-weight merino one,  and it could be quite nice and practical. I even began to wonder just what the women wore under them!  Could be quite a good idea in summer.
 Some women wear the sort of scarves, completely covering hair, that we see worn by Muslim women back home.   That doesn't appeal too me - too hot and restrictive - but that is by no means the only way you can wear a scarf.

Many women wear a scarf, with underlying bun (or hair piece, or some gadget) that gives a nice profile, enables the wearer to keep her scarf in place while showing a lot of hair.  it looks quite elegant.  Whatever clothing the mullahs dictate, you can't stop women turning it into something fashionable!

This is courtesy of Google.  Looks much better than mine did!
Image result for scarf styles in iran
 And we saw these three ladies, out enjoying themselves. 

 And there are no fully covered faces (post-box style) or burkas anywhere to be seen.

Whatever people wear, there are things we have in common - such as a young couple taking a selfie.

If I lived here, I would sharpen up my scarf skills, get a false bun and have the scarf elegantly and precariously sitting on the back of my head.

Another gender issue - separate screening for women, including at airports.  Again, I don't mind at all - it is a much gentler experience.  After all, we accept gendered toilets, so it is not a new idea.

However I don't think I will take to scarf wearing when I get home.

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